Bay of Islands Motorhome Holiday Guide

A subtropical paradise lies nestled in Northland on New Zealand’s North Island. It’s a mesmerising destination if you’re seeking adventure and tranquillity in equal measure.

With its pristine beaches, shimmering turquoise waters and lush green landscapes, this subregion offers a captivating escape — especially if you’re travelling by motorhome. Welcome to the Bay of Islands.

In this motorhome holiday guide, we highlight how to get around the Bay of Islands in a recreational vehicle. We also talk about what you can see, do and eat in the area, annual events and festivals, and where to stay overnight in your campervan.

The Jewel of the North

Few places worldwide are renowned for having more than 100 islands scattered around just waiting to be explored. The Bay of Islands is named such for a reason — the area has 144 islands.

Not all are accessible, as some are only rocks in the ocean. However, many are worth a day trip if you’re on a motorhome holiday and base yourself in one of the Bay’s popular towns — like Paihia, Russell, Waitangi or Kerikeri.

Māori established settlements in the Bay in the 10th century and enjoyed the sheltered harbours and incredibly rich seafood resources. Europeans didn’t arrive until 700 years later when Captain Cook named the area the Bay of Islands.

Eventually, in the late 18th century, the Bay of Islands became a trading and whaling centre. During this time, the town of Russell was settled — and it gathered a reputation as a lawless port.

The most important historic event in the Bay of Islands was the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. Signed by representatives of the British Crown and Māori chiefs, it’s modern-day New Zealand’s founding document.

This historic event and the annual celebrations surrounding Waitangi Day make the Bay of Islands, particularly the town of Waitangi, a unique and enjoyable place to visit.

Getting around the Bay of Islands

Although the area’s dotted with islands, driving around the coastline is remarkably easy and gratifying. That’s also true behind the wheel of a motorhome, though you may want to consider hiring a compact model — to help manoeuvre some of the narrow, winding roads.

State Highway 11 is your gateway to the Bay of Islands. It passes through:

• Paihia — an excellent town with a vibrant waterfront for basing your Bay adventures

• Waitangi — home to the sacred and tranquil Waitangi Treaty Grounds

• Kerikeri — a laid-back town with vineyards, artisan crafts and orchards

• Russell — this ex-raucous whaling port has stunning beaches and historic buildings.

To make the most of your time in the Bay of Islands, consider basing your motorhome at one of the commercial campgrounds in Paihia or Russell and organising day tours by boat.

Things to see and do in the Bay of Islands

A captivating blend of natural wonders, historic landmarks, and vibrant marine life make up the many attractions in the Bay of Islands. In this part of NZ, you can kayak, sail, dolphin watch, island hop and explore charming towns steeped in Māori and European history.

Reflect at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds

If you enjoy learning about a country's history when travelling to it, the Treaty Grounds at Waitangi are not to be missed. This is a special place — the birthplace of a nation, contemporary New Zealand.

The grounds symbolise biculturalism — the partnership between Māori and New Zealanders of European descent (Pākehā). Before the Treaty signing at Waitangi, the grounds also famously hosted:

• Choosing New Zealand's first national flag in 1834

• The country’s declaration of independence in 1835.

The Waitangi Treaty Grounds overlook the Bay of Islands from a stunning vantage point. During your visit, you can check out:

• The Museum of Waitangi — which tells the story of the Treaty from different perspectives

• Te Whare Rūnanga — a traditional Māori meeting house that reflects Māori stories and carving styles

• Treaty House — the first British residency in New Zealand

• Flagstaff — marking the location where the Treaty was first signed

• Ngātokimatawhaorua — the world’s largest ceremonial waka, or canoe.

If you plan to tour the Bay of Islands in early February, come to the Treaty Grounds on the 6th to partake in the celebrations of NZ’s national holiday.

Snorkel or dive in the Bay

The Bay of Islands offers underwater experiences for everyone, whether you're a beginner or an experienced diver or snorkeller. If you’re interested in snorkelling in the Bay, consider:

• Deep Water Cove — for clear waters and abundant marine life, including stingray, near Cape Brett

• Urupukapuka Island — calm, sheltered bays full of diverse marine life are a feature of the Bay’s biggest island

• Waewaetorea Island — rocky reefs provide a habitat for many fish and invertebrates around this smaller island.

Alternatively, if you’re a keen diver, look for a tour that will take you to:

• Black Rocks — a predominantly sheltered location with a mix of interesting rock formations and reef life

• Tikitiki Island — for diverse underwater topography like caves, walls and kelp forests with large schools of fish

• Wreck of the Canterbury — sunk near Deep Water Cove, this ship is now an artificial reef with plenty of marine life.

Embrace the charm of Paihia

The beating heart of the incomparable Bay of Islands is Paihia. It’s probably the ideal motorhome base for exploring the wider Bay area — but also offers a relaxing waterfront of cafes, restaurants, boats and a wharf.

The town is recognised as the gateway to the Bay of Islands. Catch a boat for a scenic cruise, adventure tour or water taxi to Russell.

Head to Haruru Falls

Three kilometres west of Paihia is the fantastic Haruru Falls. The Falls are fairly wide at 15m and drop about 5m over a cliff into the river. You’ll be able to enjoy views of the Falls from various walking tracks and platforms.

In Māori, the word Haruru means continuous noise or roar, so expect the sound of a thunderous waterfall — especially after heavy rain.

Swim with dolphins

For a truly thrilling experience, join a guided dolphin encounter tour. The Bay of Islands is home to several species of dolphins, including the common dolphin and the bottlenose dolphin.

The well-respected operators in the area cooperate with the Department of Conservation (DOC) to ensure the encounters are done in a way that respects the dolphins’ natural behaviour.

Dolphin tours depart from the waterfront in Paihia. Spots can fill quickly in the summer from December to February, and dolphin activity is highest between November and March.

Hang out in historic Russell

Russell has a certain charm. The town is steeped in history, and you can sense that just wandering around. With an alluring blend of natural beauty, heritage and chilled vibes, you’ll want to spend a day here — at least.

The country’s oldest house of worship, eloquently named Christ Church, is in the town of Russell. Constructed in 1835, it still shows musket bullet holes and sits beside an interesting graveyard.

For other things to do in Russell, you can:

• Visit Russell Museum — to find out more about its colourful past as a whaling station and NZ’s first capital

• Hike the Flagstaff Hill Track — to this historic site where protests against colonial rule resulted in the British flag repeatedly being chopped down

• Laze on nearby Long Beach — ideal for sunbathing, but also swimming and kayaking

• Stroll along the waterfront promenade — and sample a cafe, restaurant or some shops.

  
  
  

Wander the Coastal Walkway

One of the things to do in Paihia is to wander some of the Bay of Islands Coastal Walkway. The trail heads to Opua, and then after the vehicle ferry ride to Okiato, it goes overland to Russell, looping back to Paihia via the passenger ferry.

You can walk or cycle the trail in either direction. The path is also a part of Te Araroa — the country’s national trail from Cape Reinga to Bluff.

Meander through the Old Packhouse Market

Spend a Saturday or Sunday morning at the Old Packhouse Market sourcing delectable Northland products for your motorhome holiday. Here you can find local produce, artisanal products, street food, seafood and cheese.

Don’t be deceived by the looks of the old fruit packing shed location. It transforms into a vibrant meeting and eating spot every weekend. Check the hand-written chalkboards to try local wines, craft beer and baked goodies.

Visit Kerikeri

Kerikeri is home to New Zealand’s oldest standing stone and European buildings. If you’re into history, there are plenty of things to do in the town, making it worthy of a visit.

The Kerikeri Stone Store was built by 1836 as a key site for early European settlers and missionaries. Nearby Kemp House is the country’s oldest surviving building, constructed in 1822.

You can also view the preserved fortress of the Hongi Hika people — Kororipo. It was once a fortified settlement and played a key role in early contact between Māori and Europeans.

For a leisurely walk in the area, wander the Kerikeri River Track. The track is part of Te Araroa and will take you to a popular watering hole at Wharepuke Falls. Also, consider the short Rainbow Falls Walk — the famous 27m high waterfall in Kerikeri.

Day trip to Urupukapuka Island

The largest island in the Bay is pest-free Urupukapuka, located not too far off the coast of Paihia. It’s a superb day trip option that’s only accessible by boat, so you’ll need to catch a ferry or water taxi from Paihia to get there.

You’ll enjoy picturesque beaches and relaxing bushwalks to wander — plus, the summit of Urupukapuka Island will reward you with 360-degree vistas of the Bay of Islands.

Urupukapuka translates to a place of great treasure — and that’s precisely what you’ll find with the still-visible evidence of ancient Māori occupation, especially close to Otehei Bay.

Sail around the Bay

With transparent waters, sea life galore and dozens of islands, it seems only natural to sign up for a Bay of Islands perspective from on the water.

You’ll find several companies in Paihia that offer half or full day sailing cruises around the Bay of Islands — with options to visit the Hole in the Rock and Urupukapuka Island. The sea water is usually calm, which makes sailing an idyllic way to enjoy the Bay.

What to eat in the Bay of Islands

From a dining perspective, the Bay of Islands is as diverse as the creatures in the sea. You can enjoy a wide range of fresh seafood and award-winning wines, matched superbly with magnificent ocean or harbour views.

Charlotte’s Kitchen

The story goes that Charlotte was New Zealand’s first female settler — who also happened to be an escaped Australian convict. Today, her memory is captured in the name of this waterfront restaurant and bar with a fantastic location.

Charlotte’s Kitchen is perched on the main pier in Paihia, so you’ll have views if you decide to eat or drink here. Enjoy the sound of wakes from nearby boats washing up against the restaurant’s pylons — as you devour another oyster or freshly caught fish.

Duke of Marlborough Hotel

With one of the greatest restaurant taglines of refreshing rascals and reprobates since 1827, the Duke of Marlborough Hotel is something of a historical institution in these parts.

Situated in an incredible beachfront location, the Duke, as it’s colloquially called, offers stunning vistas with your favourite tipple or seafood snack. New Zealand craft beer selections are a must at this eternally popular establishment.

JFC Paihia

This homely eatery aims to achieve good, honest and fresh fish and chips. At least, that’s how they began in 2019. These days, you can expect to find a much more extensive range of seafood — with the classic fish and chips still receiving rave reviews.

The JFC in JFC Paihia stands for Just Fish and Chips, though ironically, you can now also order seafood chowders, anchovies on toast, prawn cocktails and mussel fritters.

Sage

This impressive restaurant at Paroa Bay is about a scenic 15 minute drive from Russell through the backcountry. Featuring a minimal mains menu with a clear focus on seafood, Sage was recently awarded one hat in the Cuisine Good Food Awards — similar to a Michelin star.

On the menu you’ll find mainly local ingredients, including pāua and crayfish depending on the season. As a bonus, Paroa Bay is also a winery, so ask your waiter to help pair your meal with a matching local wine.

Third Wheel Coffee Co.

To slow your travel pace, try some of the area’s best coffee with a stop at Third Wheel Coffee Co. 

If you’re craving vegan food, this might be your place to start the day — with plenty of positive feedback on Third Wheel’s granola and its range of tasty cabinet food. The often-forgotten cinnamon wheel can be found here, too — always hard to turn down.

Where to stay in the Bay of Islands

With numerous Bay of Islands campgrounds and holiday parks catering to recreational vehicles, it’s easy to find a comfortable and convenient base for your adventures. From waterfront sites with full amenities to secluded locations surrounded by nature, you can find your ideal park up camp with spectacular scenery as the backdrop.

Waitangi Holiday Park

For a waterview powered camping site to hook your motorhome rental up to mains power, consider Waitangi Holiday Park. It’s only a ten minute walk to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, so if your time in the Bay is focused on Waitangi, it’s a perfect place to stay.

Orango Bay Holiday Park

Prefer to stay at a commercial campground but still want to hear, and potentially see, kiwi and other NZ native birds in the wild? Book a few nights here — at Orango Bay Holiday Park. You may get lucky spotting free-roaming North Island weka and brown kiwi.

If you’re travelling with kids, the saltwater swimming pool will be a sure winner. Likewise, hanging about in the playground and roasting marshmallows over the campfire will keep them from getting bored.

Bay of Islands Campervan Park

At the Bay of Islands Campervan Park you can secure a site near olive trees. It’s an ideal location to take in much of the Bay’s highlights. You’re only a 10 minute walk from Paihia Wharf and the Waitangi Treaty Grounds — plus 2 minutes from the nearest beach.

Paihia Top 10 Holiday Park

Many towns and cities around New Zealand have a Top 10 camping option, and the Bay of Islands is no different. The Paihia Top 10 Holiday Park is a family-friendly campground so expect plenty of families with young kids staying here — especially over summer and school holiday times.

With a mountain backdrop on one side and an ocean view elevated by full moonshine on the other, it’s an idyllic location within walking distance of Paihia.

Bay of Islands Holiday Park

One option if you want to be away from the seawater’s edge but closer to a river is Bay of Islands Holiday Park. Established by the Waitangi River, this camping ground offers lots of shade, a swimming pool and even a pizza oven if you need a break from motorhome cooking.

Down to Earth

Just inland from the town of Kerikeri is this highly rated camping option, where you can go off-grid in an ecologically restored rural valley.

Down to Earth is different from your average camp. For starters, it’s not busy, and you can completely relax. The owners make you feel at home and even have a massage option if your body needs a little treatment.

Be sure to contact the owners before arrival. Although they can take motorhome campers, larger RVs may find their sites inaccessible. As an eco-minded outfit, they can only take a small number of guests. 

Bay of Islands freedom camping spots

Freedom camping in Paihia or throughout the Bay of Islands can be difficult to find as most campgrounds require a fee. However, there are a few within easy driving distance of the Bay area, including:

• Hundertwasser Car Park — close to the world famous in NZ Hundertwasser toilets, this freedom camping spot is about a 20 minute drive from Paihia in the small town of Kawakawa

• Te Corner — legal for certified self-contained RVs and slightly further away from the Bay is this free space on the corner of the main road

• Tu Ponga Park — located in Ōkaihau, even a little further afield is this freedom camping park with space for only two vehicles at a time.

Events and festivals to go to in the Bay of Islands

Whether you're interested in music, history, sailing or just soaking up the festive atmosphere, the Bay of Islands has plenty going on.

Waitangi Day

Waitangi Day is the annual celebration of the nation's birth. It always falls on February 6, and the Waitangi Treaty Grounds is the home of the day’s festivities, celebrations and reflections.

Plan to be here then, and you’ll witness various cultural performances, historical reenactments and family-friendly activities.

Bay of Islands Jazz & Blues Festival

The Bay of Islands Jazz & Blues Festival has been running for almost 40 years. It always features a diverse line-up of blues and jazz musicians. Performances take place across the subregion in Paihia, Russell and Kerikeri.

A celebration of great music and good vibes, the festival usually takes place in August.

Cruz'n the Bayz

Passing through the local communities in late February or early March is the yearly Cruz'n the Bayz event. It combines a classic car show with:

• Live music — often in Kerikeri and Paihia

• Food stalls — and family entertainment.

Cruz'n the Bayz is a fun celebration of vintage vehicles and community spirit — with proceeds going towards local charities.

Tall Ships Regatta

Typically held early in January, a majestic spectacle takes place in the waters of the Bay of Islands. The Tall Ships Regatta sees a fleet of tall ships combining some competitive racing with a celebration of maritime history.

Hosted by the Russell Boating Club, if you’re in the area you’ll have the opportunity to admire these impressive vessels and take in the nautical atmosphere.

Bay of Islands Walking Weekend

October sees all sorts lace up their boots and participate in the area’s popular walking festival — the Bay of Islands Walking Weekend.

The festival features several guided walks to suit varying fitness levels and interests. You’ll have opportunities to discover coastal paths, historic sites and even hidden trails. The event is a great way to connect with other outdoor enthusiasts and experience the Bay's natural beauty.

FAQs for travelling by motorhome in the Bay of Islands 

Check out our top ten reasons to tour New Zealand by motorhome this summer.